Frequently Asked Questions
The questions I get most often from people starting out or rethinking their setup.
I'm in my first year. When will I get honey?
Usually not at all. First-year colonies are establishing comb, building population, and storing food for their own winter. A surplus you can harvest typically comes in year two or three. Plan to leave everything they make the first year — the colony survival rate doubles when you do.
Should I use a Langstroth or a horizontal hive (Layens/Lazutin)?
Both work. Langstroth has more commercial equipment and more YouTube content. Horizontal hives (Layens, Lazutin) eliminate heavy lifting, tend to overwinter better in cold climates, and let bees build the nest shape they prefer. I run horizontal hives and my overwintering success has been higher. Dr. Leo Sharashkin publishes free Layens plans at horizontalhive.com.
Can I be treatment-free?
In theory yes, in practice rarely — unless you are geographically isolated from other beekeepers. In mixed-beekeeper country, your bees bring home mites from their bees, and once mite load hits critical mass the colony collapses. I've watched it happen and don't recommend it. If you want to try, read Michael Palmer and Randy Oliver first and expect losses.
What mite treatments do you use?
Apilife Var and Apiguard (thymol-based) rotated so mites don't build resistance, plus Oxalic acid strips during honey flow when brood cycles are down. Oxalic acid is only really effective on phoretic (non-brood) mites, so timing matters.
How much honey do my bees need for winter in Idaho?
In my apiary, I plan for two deep boxes and one medium fully packed with honey going into winter, plus whatever brood they finish on. Colder, higher-elevation spots need more. Milder valleys need slightly less. Heft the back end of the hive in late fall — if it doesn't feel heavy, supplement with dry sugar or fondant.
Should I insulate my hive for winter?
Yes, but for moisture more than cold. I use sheep's wool stuffed into a pillow case and placed inside an empty medium box on top of the hive. The wool absorbs condensation from the cluster below, keeping the bees dry. I also tilt the hive forward slightly so any condensation runs down the front walls instead of dripping on the cluster.
My friend has a Flow Hive. Any tips?
Flow Hive supers have plastic frames that need to come off in fall. I freeze mine each season to prevent wax moths and small hive beetle residue. Don't leave the Flow super on during winter — it's not insulated and doesn't help the cluster.
Is Jeff Horchoff's advice applicable in Idaho?
Jeff is wonderful and I've met him at conferences, but his climate in Louisiana is profoundly different from ours. His bees don't have to cluster for 5 months. His nectar flow timing, mite pressure, and wintering practices are tuned for a totally different environment. Take the principles, not the specifics.
Do I need to register as a beekeeper in Idaho?
In Idaho, apiaries are registered with the Idaho State Department of Agriculture. It's simple, free in most cases, and helps them notify you of nearby pesticide applications. Check with your county extension office for current rules.
What's the most common first-year mistake?
Not treating for varroa in August. Mites crash the colony right when it's trying to raise the fat, long-lived winter bees. A September treatment is often too late — by then the damage is done.